Gramercy has a distinctive appeal: the neighbourhood feels so European and, for me, especially reminiscent of Barcelona with its wrought-iron balconies, abundance of greenery, Gothic architecture and relaxed vibe. Located only a blocks away from the hustle of Park Avenue and the bustle of Union Square, it makes for a peaceful enclave in an otherwise busy part of Manhattan.
Wrought Iron Verandahs wrap around houses built in the 1840s; the house to the left was the home of former NYC mayor James Harper
Mini Miner - or Cooper, for those in the US - against Tudor architecture
Formerly the "Gramercy Park Clubhouse", this Neo-Gothic building was completed in 1910
Overlooking a gated park
There’s alot of history here, mixed in with a bit of intrigue and a dash of bohemia. Bordered by 14th and 23rd streets, and 1st and Park Avenues, it’s awe-inspiring to think that Gramercy’s streets were walked by the likes of Mark Twain, Theodore Roosevelt and Washington Irving, who wrote The Legend of Sleepy Hollow.
Irving Place runs in between 3rd and Park Avenues and is lined with great dining spots – from the coffee underworld of 71 Irving Place, to Mario Batali’s Spanish-inspired Casa Mono. This street leads to the heart of the Gramercy neighbourhood: its park (southern end). (NB: Oscar Wilde lived on the corner of 17th Street and Irving Place for a while.)
Casa Mono - by the inspiring chef, Mario Batali
Descend into 71 Irving Place for a creamy soy latte and buttery croissant...
... and voila!
New York's oldest surviving saloon and where O'Henry wrote "The Gift of the Magi"; Pete's Tavern survived Prohibition disguised as a flower shop
Gramercy Park is located between 20th and 21st streets, and brings Lexington Avenue to an end at its north (with Irving Place abutting it on the southern end). It was designed as a private garden, to be enjoyed by the residents that purchased lots along its perimeter. When Samuel B. Ruggles constructed the area in 1831, he gave those buyers a key to its gate. The public may access the garden only on Christmas Eve.
Statue of Shakespearean actor, Edwin Booth; Chrysler in distance
Overlooking this garden are homes that were once lived in by prominent figures: former NYC mayor, James Harper; actor, James Cagney; painter and teacher, Robert Henri; actor, John Barrymore. More recently, Winona Rydner, Kate Hudson, Jimmy Fallon and NBC News anchor, Ann Curry, have lived/live in the area. Whilst this is no secret garden, it is certainly one that will have you wishing for the privilege of its entry.
The National Arts Club, 1884. Former residence of Samuel Tilden; now a National landmark. It overlooks Gramercy Park.
Classic red bricks flank a peeling white
Entrance to the former "Gramercy Park Clubhouse" - residence of many society figures, writers, artists, editors. John Barrymore lived here.
Varied architecture
Also opposite the park, and alongside its architecturally elaborate neighbours, stands the modern and boxy exterior of the Gramercy Park Hotel; its plainness not in the slightest a distraction from the obvious nostalgic beauty of its surrounds. In fact, as soon as you discover the richly decorated interiors behind its limestone facade, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into a different time.
The Gramercy Park Hotel
Hotel entrance
The hotel may not look it from the onset, but it originally opened in 1925. It continues to play host to the stars, and back in the day, was a frequent gathering spot for artists and writers. Humphrey Bogart married his first wife here; Bob Marley favoured its ‘reputation for discretion'; Madonna, Debbie Harry and David Bowie were guests.
Fast forward a few decades, and in 2003 the Gramercy Park Hotel received a much needed renovation. Ian Schrager and Julian Schanbel were the modern-day masterminds behind its reinvention, which resulted in a grand and opulent revival that serves as a grand gesture to its former days of glory. As soon as you enter its lobby area, you’re welcomed by a crystal Venetian chandelier of dramatic proportions, and enveloped in a world of rich red velvets, centuries-old furnishings, and a vast assortment of art by Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Damien Hirst, and Schnabel himself.
The Rose Bar and its sawtooth chandelier
Lounging against art
From the art book table in the Rose Bar, looking into the street facing Jade Bar
The interior design puts you in a state of pure wonderment – exactly what you should feel when staying in a home away from home. It’s so plush and inviting; eclectic yet harmonious; more chic than shabby – it’s what I’d describe “luxurious bohemia”.
The black&white chessboard floor tiles were imported from Morocco
And don’t get me started on its gorgeous rooftop – Gramercy Terrace – that feels like a lavish ivy adorned sunroom, seventeen stories above street level…
I’m no stranger to the Gramercy neighbourhood nor the Gramercy Park Hotel, yet today’s jaunt left a lasting impression on me. I felt a world away from the usual and I found alot of comfort in that. Perhaps the perfect winter morning – blue skies, mild temps – also had something to do with it. To be completely honest, I really didn’t want to leave.
Please don't let me wake up from this dream... an unfortunate elevator descent.
Filed under: Art, Europe, Inspiration, New York, Photography, Travel, USA Tagged: 71 Irving Place, Andy Warhol, Ann Curry, Architecture, Bob Marley, Casa Mono, Chrysler Building, coffee, Damien Hirst, David Bowie, Debbie Harry, Edwin Booth, Gothic, Gramercy Park, Gramercy Park Clubhouse, Gramercy Park Hotel, Gramercy Terrace, Humphrey Bogart. Madonna, Ian Schrager, Jade Bar, James Cagney, James Harper, Jean-Michael Basquiat, Jimmy Fallon, John Barrymore, Julian Schnabel, Kate Hudson, Manhattan, Mario Batali, Mark Twain, Morocco, New Your City, Oscar Wilde, Pete's Tavern, Robert Henri, Rode Bar, rooftop, Samuel B. Ruggles, sunroom, Theodore Roosevelt, Tudor, Washington Irving, Winona Ryder
